Some of the best birding in all of North America takes place in the marshes, seasonal wetlands, and swamp forests bordering western Lake Erie. At the heart of that region sits Ottawa National Wildlife Refuge (ONWR), home to everything from huge trumpeter swans with 8-foot wingspans to tiny, colorful wood warblers weighing mere ounces.
Located just off State Route 2 east of Toledo, most of the federal refuge is off-limits to visitors for much of the year. For a few short weeks each spring, however, Ottawa opens its gates to give nature lovers an up-close, behind-the-scenes look at the refuge and its teeming wildlife.
“Visitors drive their own vehicle at their own pace,” says Rebecca Lewis, visitor services specialist at the refuge, “and are free to stop wherever and whenever they like. You are also welcome to get out of your car at the designated parking areas to watch or photograph wildlife. Best of all, it’s free.”
My wife and I made the Ottawa driving tour last spring for the first time — it won’t be our last — and invited our oldest grandson along, a 13-year-old who is absolutely nuts about birds and birding. We took our time, driving slowly and stopping frequently, taking four hours to make the 7-mile drive on a perfect spring day.
Among the three of us, we identified about 50 of the nearly 300 bird species listed as frequent visitors to the refuge. In addition, we saw muskrats feeding and turtles and snakes sunning, and heard bullfrogs jug-o-rumming.
Adjoining ONWR is state-owned Magee Marsh Wildlife Area; the two areas combine to preserve some 7,000 acres of prime Ohio coastal wetlands. The highlight of Magee during spring is the mile-long boardwalk through a wet woodlands, where migrating warblers gather to rest and feed before continuing their journey north across Lake Erie to Canada.
If you visit Magee Marsh in May, be prepared for a little friendly “combat birding,” as on most days there can be nearly as many birders as birds. The human visitors flock from all over North America, the parking lot sporting vehicle license plates from as far away as California, Oregon, Arizona, Florida, and the New England states.
But having so many birders concentrated in a relatively small area doesn’t seem to bother the birds, and can even help with identification: Not sure what kind of bird you’re seeing through your binoculars? Just ask the guy standing beside you. Using that approach, we were able to add several species of warblers to our list when we went. The highlight of the morning was a bald eagle flying in and perching on an overhead tree limb, seemingly aloof to all the human activity below.
Those wanting an Ottawa/Magee overnight excursion could consider staying at nearby Maumee Bay State Park, where a full-service lodge, cabins, and camping are available. There’s yet another birding location nearby at the extensive boardwalk at the park along the shore of Maumee Bay.
The open-house drive at ONWR coincides with “The Biggest Week in American Birding”, held annually in early May — a celebration of all things birds and birding in northwest Ohio — and International Migratory Bird Day, scheduled for Saturday, May 12.
This spring, the Ottawa driving tour will be open a total of 20 days: May 4–20 and over the three-day Memorial Day weekend, May 26–28. In addition, the refuge will be open every weekend in June.
If it’s your first time visiting the refuge, stop by the visitor center for a free map, driving directions, and other information — and don’t forget your camera, binoculars, and a bird field guide or two. You’ll definitely have many opportunities to put them all to good use.
W.H. “Chip” Gross is outdoors editor for Ohio Cooperative Living.